Again, I found the WW forum invaluable in rigging the beast right.  Here is in my opinion the best post I'd found but, and I have it pasted here to prevent the "memory hole" but you can visit WW for more in depth coverage of the topic.

<<

Posted: February 24 2005 at 2:29pm | IP Logged

Hello Everyone,
Here are some tunning ideas for the new sails. If you have any
additional questions let me know

Not every sail comes out of production exactly alike and neither does
every mast. So all of my reccommended settings will be the best
place to start and then you can try a little more and a little less from there

12.5: Start with your extention on 11cm on the 580 and try more or
less downhaul from there. You want all the sails to be twisting in to a
couple of cm inside the inner wing tip of the bird logo.

11.6: Start with your extention on 21.5cm with your 550. You want
the sail to be twisting in a couple of cm inside the inner wing tip of the
bird logo.

10.8: Start with your extention on 38cm with a 520. Or what is
actually best is to put a 5cm Stubby extention in a mast Extendo
that has been cut to 33cm. You can also put 8cm extention on a
550 and it works well. But the 520 is a little better and the 520 with
mast extendo is the best.

10.0: Start with your extention on 16.5cm with a 520 and try it
from there.

1. Things for all sizes:  Tighen the sleeve tensioner quite
tight(the webbing strap running through the tack pulley and then through
the buckle). You should play with this a little. But you will notice that
when you pull this tighter it will make the head of the sail a little looser
and it pulls the sleeve tighter.

2. Outhaul, these sails like to have a little positive outhaul for best
speed and control. As soon as you get powered enough fully outhauled
is good. If it is really light and you are underpowered. Letting
the outhaul off so that it just touches the boom is good. When going
downwind I always release it so that the sail touches the boom all
the way up to where the sleeve meets the body.

I will actually go and measure all of my personal outhaul settings and
post them here later.

3. Batten Tension: #1, #2, and #3; They should have no tention on
them at all, Even if there are still some wrinkles. #4 and #5; These you
should tension just enough to smooth out the wrinkles. #6; Add just
enough tention to just start to put a tiny bit of shape in the batten
pocket. #7; Add a little bit more than 6 so that you are shapping the
sail a bit above the boom. #8 and #9; These two battens I tension
alot. I really like to tighten them enough so that if you look down the
underside of the sail you can really see the batten pockets  shaping out
alot.

4. I always use the lower grommet hole for my outhaul line. Using
the lower hole gives me a feeling of more stability and that you are
keeping the power down lower.

5. Cambers:  If the sleeve seems a little loose at a particular batten,
or the camber seems a little loose on the mast then add another 1 or
2 of the black plastic spacers on the batten tip behind the camber.
On some of the smaller sails I also add them to bottom battens
sometimes to give more shape in the bottom of the sail.

There are also some webbing shims with Velco that you can wrap around
the tip of the batten inside the camber if you would like you cambers to
rotate less. Some people preffer them and some don't.

I hope that these can answer most of your general questions.
If you have any additional questions let me know.

>>

<<

Posted: February 24 2005 at 9:22pm | IP Logged

Hello Everyone,

For additional information as promised above here are my personal Max boom settings. This is what i set my boom at for each size and then adjust the outhaul as mentioned in the above post.

12.4: 301cm

11.6: 293.5cm

10.8: 283.5cm

10.0: 273.5cm

this is all on a gulftech boom.

best regards

>>

<<

Posted: March 09 2005 at 9:01pm | IP Logged

Hello Sergio,

1. you should slide the mast in with just the bottom cam on and over the top of the rest of the cams. put a small amount of downhaul tension and the put the boom on and outhaul the sail. then pop the three cams on starting with the one right above the boom, then the top one and then the one below the boom. the easies way to pop on the ones just above the boom and just below the boom is to put your hand inside the sleeve on top of the camber and push down while pushing the camber on. if you just can not get the top camber on then you should loosen the downhaul tension just a little till you can pop the top one on.

2. there is supposed to be no tip plug. it just makes it easier to put the mast in and you dont have to worry about wether the tip is in the mast. It seems that a few other companies did this as well this year.

3. we will look into putting up a pic for putting on the plastic spacers. but take off the cams of the ones that you think need spacers. and slide a plastic spacer over the batten tip. this might be a tight fit because of the velcro there. so it might be best to file out the inside of the plastic spacer to make the opening larger. and push it on using a pair of pliers. for the Velcro shims after you have done anything with spacers you put the camber on the batten tip and then stick the velcro shim inside on both sides of the batten tip. this is just an option for people to add if they dont want there battens to rotate as much in the cambers.

4. The sails seem to be rotating very well with these cams and there seems to be no harm to the mast. I would just suggest keep the the sand out of the inside of the sleeve.

I hope this answers your questions above.

Best Regards

>>

All the above were posted by Devon Boulon on the WW site at: http://www.windwing.com/Forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=54&KW=formula+race+10&PN=0&TPN=1

This is all great info and I look forward to playing with the settings tomorrow.  Stu, you'd rather be there.  You have my mast and boom, don't you?

-r.